Ultar SAR (also Ultar, Ultar II, Bojohagur Duanasir II) is the southeastern most major peak of the Batura Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakorum Range. It lies about 10 km (6 miles) northeast of the Karimabad, a town on the Karakorum Highway in the Hunza Valley, part of the Gilgit District of the Northern Areas of Pakistan.
The first two ascents were made in July 1996 by two separate Japanese expeditions, the first (from the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club) led by Akito Yamazaki (who summitted, but died on the descent) and the second led by Ken Takahashi. The first summit team comprised Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka (who died one year later on the nearby peak Bublimotin). They climbed the peak from the southwest in alpine style, doing much of the climbing at night to avoid danger from falling rock and ice. After their successful summit, they faced strong storms and bivouaced several days without food before returning to base camp. However, Akihito Yamazaki died at base camp of an internal disease due to the severe stress of climbing.
The second summit team comprised Takahashi and four others: Masayuki Ando, Ryushi Hoshino, Wataru Saito, and Nobuo Tsutsumi. They climbed the south ridge. Since 1996, there have been no recorded ascents of the peak.
||Arrive at Islamabad transfer to hotel.
||Drive to Chilas by Karakorum highway 11-12hrs
||Drive to Karimabad 5-6hrs
||Drive to Shahabad jeep 1hs and trek to Shamir Harar
||Trek to Bath Bakor 4-5hrs
||Trek to Ultar Peak base
||29 days for climb
||Trek down to Bath Bakor
||Trek down to Shahabad and drive to Karimabad
||Free day in Karimabad
||Drive back to Besham 9-10hrs
||Drive to Islamabad 6-7hrs
||Transfer to Islamabad airport for International flight.
- Making arrangement of import/ export permit from the ministry of tourism.
- Assistance in obtaining climbing permit from the Ministry of Tourism.
- Custom clearance of cargo before arrival of the team, and storage facility.
- Hotel accommodation at Islamabad and Chilas.
- Briefing/ Debriefing at Ministry of Tourism.
- All meals during trek and at B.C as per program.
- All road transport and all transfers as mentioned in the program.
- Porterage of 75 per team member of expedition, equipment and high altitude food to B.C and 50 kg per team member on return from BC.
- Camping ground fees, sleeping tents, mattresses, kitchen tent, mess and toilet tent, field stools.
- Crockery, cooking pan, cutlery, fuel and other related kitchen equipments.
- Daily wages and basic kit of guide, sardar, cook and assistants.
- Field staff and low altitude porter's insurance.
- Porterage at hotels, airports, toll taxes and all other taxes.
- Reconfirmation of air tickets, mail handling/ forwarding to BC.
- Hiring of high altitude porters, mail runner or any other crew as per requirements (wages and kit to be provided by the team).
- International air tickets, airport taxes, excess baggage charges.
- High altitude porters/ any crew above BC.
- Sleeping bags, tents, mattresses, high altitude food and oxygen beyond base camp.
- Ground evacuations, helicopter rescue charges and medications.
- Climbing permit fee or any other fee to be paid to the authorities of Pakistan.
- Insurance liability of team members and others under force majeure situations.
- Clearing agent charges for the clearance of team equipments.