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Expeditions / Latok Group Expeditions Baltistan Pakistan


treks Description

Duration of Trek: 34 Days
Mountain Range:  Karakorum                            
Season:     May to September                    
Maximum Elevation: 7145-M.

The Latok group is a small cluster of dramatic rock peaks in the Panmah Muztagh, part of the central Karakorum mountain range. They lie just to the east of the Ogre group, dominated by Baintha Brakk. To the immediate south of the Latok group lies the Baintha Lukpar Glacier, a small tributary of the Biafo Glacier, one of the main glaciers of the Karakorum. On the north side of the group lies the Choktoi Glacier.

The group comprises four main summits Latok I, north-central, 7,145 m, Latok II, west, Latok III, east, 6,949 m, Latok IV, southeast, 6,456 m.

All of the summits are notable for their extreme technical difficulty, and they have been the scene of some of the hardest climbing done at high altitude anywhere in the world.

Latok I was first climbed in 1979 by a Japanese expedition led by Naoki Takada; the first summit party comprised Sin'e Matsumi, Tsuneo Shigehiro, Yu Watanabe, and they were followed three days later by Hideo Muto, Jun'ichi Oku, and Kota Endo. They started from the Baintha Lukpar Glacier and climbed a buttress to reach the East Ridge.
The steep North Ridge of Latok I, 2,500 m (8,200 ft) high, is a notorious unclimbed route: it was first attempted, and almost successfully climbed, by the noted American climbers Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy, George Lowe, and Jeff Lowe. The lightweight style of this climb was widely admired, despite the lack of a summit. Many unsuccessful attempts have followed.

Latok II saw its first ascent in 1977, by an Italian group led by Arturo Bergameschi. (This was the first successful ascent in the group. They climbed the southeast face of the peak, and E. Alimonta, T. Mase, and R. Valentini made the summit.

A notable recent ascent of Latok II came in 1997, when a very strong team composed of Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber, Toni Gutsch, and Conrad Anker climbed the sheer West Face of the peak. They described this aptly as putting "El Capitan on top of Denali": a 1,000 m (3,280 ft) vertical rock wall with a base at 6,100 m (20,000 ft) elevation. The total vertical for the climb was 2,200 m (7,200 ft).

The first ascent of Latok III came in 1979, when a Japanese team under the leadership of Yoji Teranishi climbed the Southwest Ridge route. They climbed the Southwest Ridge, and the summit party were Teranishi, Kazushige Takami, and Sakae Mori. The second ascent, via the same route, came in 1988, by an Italian party. This was in fact the first repeat ascent of any peak in the group.

 

treks Itinerary

Day 01 Arrive Islamabad transfer to Hotel.
Day 02 Briefing in the Alpine Club of Pakistan, hotel.
Day 03 Drive along the KKH to Chilas, hotel.
Day 04 Drive Chilas to Skardu, hotel.
Day 05 Rest day and preparation for the expedition in Skardu, hotel.
Day 06 Jeep drive to Askole, camp.
Day 07 Trek to Julla, camp.
Day 08 Trek to Panmah, camp.
Day 09 Trek to Choktoi mouth, camp.
Day 10 Trek to Latok I, II, III, IV Base camp.
Day 11-26 Climbing.
Day 27 Walk down to Panmah, camp.
Day 28 Trek to Julla, camp.
Day 29 Trek to Askole, camp.
Day 30 Drive by jeep to Skardu. Hotel.
Day 31 Drive to Besham, hotel
Day 32 Drive to Islamabad, hotel.
Day 33 De-briefing with Alpine club.
Day 34 Transfer to airport for onward destination.
End of our services

Note :- Although we try to adhere to the schedule listed below, this itinerary is subject to change due to numerous reasons beyond our control such as bad weather, cancelled or delayed flights, road washouts, vehicle breakdowns, accidents, sickness, govt. restrictions, & all other unforeseen exigencies. 

Please Note: Skardu/ Islamabad/ Skardu flights are subject to weather and backlog, in case of flight cancellation we will drive back to Islamabad via Chilas, and one night of Islamabad will be adjusted in overland travel.
Services Includes:

  • Making arrangement of import/ export permit from the ministry of tourism.
  • Assistance in obtaining climbing permit from the Ministry of Tourism.
  • Custom clearance of cargo before arrival of the team, and storage facility.
  • Hotel accommodation at Islamabad and Chilas.
  • Briefing/ Debriefing at Ministry of Tourism.
  • All meals during trek and at B.C as per program.
  • All road transport and all transfers as mentioned in the program.
  • Porterage of 75 per team member of expedition, equipment and high altitude food to B.C and 50 kg per team member on return from BC.
  • Camping ground fees, sleeping tents, mattresses, kitchen tent, mess and toilet tent, field stools.
  • Crockery, cooking pan, cutlery, fuel and other related kitchen equipments.
  • Daily wages and basic kit of guide, sardar, cook and assistants.
  • Field staff and low altitude porter's insurance.
  • Porterage at hotels, airports, toll taxes and all other taxes.
  • Reconfirmation of air tickets, mail handling/ forwarding to BC.
  • Hiring of high altitude porters, mail runner or any other crew as per requirements (wages and kit to be provided by the team).

Services Excludes:

  • International air tickets, airport taxes, excess baggage charges.
  • High altitude porters/ any crew above BC.
  • Sleeping bags, tents, mattresses, high altitude food and oxygen beyond base camp.
  • Ground evacuations, helicopter rescue charges and medications.
  • Climbing permit fee or any other fee to be paid to the authorities of Pakistan.
  • Insurance liability of team members and others under force majeure situations.
  • Clearing agent charges for the clearance of team equipments.

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