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Rock Climbing / Beatrice 5,800m Peak

Trek to Patundass Description

Beatrice is a 5,800m peak located on the north side of the Charaksa Valley in the Hushe region. The summit ridge is a rather narrow complex affair and has been reached once before by a young British team in 1988. Andy Bunnage and Bob Marks made the first ascent of the peak via the Diaper Couloir, a 1,000m D+ snow and ice gully on the south flank. There are several other spectacular granite walls and spires at the eastern end of the Charaksa Glacier, close to K7. These include TDK (The Dog's Knob), first climbed by Bob Marks and John Styles in 1988 and now sporting three or four separate routes to its summit. The North Ridge of the symmetrical pyramid of Nasa (first ascent in 1988 by Andy Bunnage and David Hamilton) has gained a reputation as the easiest and most accessible rock climb in the Karakoram. Graded British VS it has received seven or eight ascents in the last decade.

Beatrice is a 5,800m peak located on the north side of the Charaksa Valley in the Hushe region. The summit ridge is a rather narrow complex affair and has been reached once before by a young British team in 1988. Andy Bunnage and Bob Marks made the first ascent of the peak via the Diaper Couloir, a 1,000m D+ snow and ice gully on the south flank. There are several other spectacular granite walls and spires at the eastern end of the Charaksa Glacier, close to K7. These include TDK (The Dog's Knob), first climbed by Bob Marks and John Styles in 1988 and now sporting three or four separate routes to its summit. The North Ridge of the symmetrical pyramid of Nasa (first ascent in 1988 by Andy Bunnage and David Hamilton) has gained a reputation as the easiest and most accessible rock climb in the Karakoram. Graded British VS it has received seven or eight ascents in the last decade.

 

Trek to Patundass Itinerary

Day 01  ISLAMABAD
Arrival in Islamabad, overnight in hotel.
Day 02 SKARDU
Flight or drive to Skardu, overnight in hotel.
Day 03 SKARDU
Reserve day for the road journey, in case the flight is cancelled.
Day 04
SKARDU TO HUSHE
After breakfast depart for the beautiful valley of Khaplu which lies at
the banks of River Shyok. Travelling amidst towering barren mountains and green valleys we arrive at the lovely village of Khaplu (2562 m). After a small break at Khaplu we continue our journey towards Hushe via. Right after Khaplu we will cross the Shyok River and enter the Hushe valley. Hushe, the last village up the valley, is about 140 kilometers east of Skardu and is the starting point for treks to various summer pastures up five glaciers. Overnight at Hushe village.
Day 05
HUSHED TO SAICHO
Here we hire porters and start our trek to Saicho. It is an easy 4-hours
walk to the beautiful campsite on the junction of Ghondogoro and Charaksa Glaciers. From here we can have an extraordinary view of K6, K7, Namika and numerous peaks around us. Overnight in camp.
Day 06
SAICHO TO BASE CAMP 4100m
Early morning start and again trailed behind the porters up the lateral
moraine to reach the dry glacier which was undulating and covered in
boulders. After half and hour we again mounted the lateral moraine by an improbable soily bank. After one hour we reached the smooth dry part of the Charaksa. The glacier was followed for a further hour. The final half hour walk over flat glacial till led us to our idyllic base camp. The campsite is idealic and provided and excellent cricket pitch for cricket lovers.
Day 07-20  CLIMBING
Day 21 BASE CAMP TO SAICHO
Walk along the north side of the Charaksa glacier to the campsite at Saicho.
Day 22
SAICHO TO KHAPLU VIA HUSHE
Return via same route to Hushe and reach Khaplu. Khaplu is beautifully
situated, spread across a wild alluvial fan, which slopes steeply down
from an amphitheater of the mountain to the south. Distance 2 to 3 hrs.
Day 23 KHAPLU TO SKARDU
Return via same route to Skardu. Overnight at Skardu
Day 24 SKARDU TO RAWALPINDI OR CHILAS
Early in the morning fly to Islamabad, if unable to fly same day drive to
Chilas. Overnight hotel.
Day 25 CHILAS TO RAWALPINDI
Upon arrival transfer to your hotel in Rawalpindi. Evening sightseeing. If
unable to fly on day 25th. This day will be use to transfer from Skardu to Islamabad by road.
Day 26 RAWALPINDI TO ONWARDS
De-briefing at Ministry of Tourism Islamabad. Evening transfer to airport
for your onward flight to abroad.
   

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